Is a quick visit to see big waves now safe in the presence of surf warnings on the coast? Along the U.S. West Coast, ocean weather has become dangerous enough to promote an extensive array of National Weather Service alerts to the people, visitors to beaches, and seafarers. The warnings cover the Oregon, California and Washington and all of them refer to one thing, the cold weather does not make the threat less and the menace is not limited to the swimmers but it includes anyone who is standing in the surf area.
Forecasters in the Pacific Northwest had tracked that surge to energy produced by a low-pressure area in the northern Pacific off Alaska days earlier. NWS Portland meteorologist Daniel Hartsock explained that, “It generated a lot of waves from that strong low-pressure system a few days ago, and that’s going to push into our coastal waters later today and tomorrow,” so this means that the waves can come a long time after the weather system that created it has passed.
That lag assists in understanding the disturbing aspect to sightseers: the conditions may appear to be under control, until it is not. The NWS Portland issued a warning in a high surf advisory saying that “Destructive waves may wash over beaches, jetties, and other structures unexpectedly. People can be swept off rocks and jetties and drown while observing high surf.” It also sounded off “Minor beach erosion” and “Higher than normal water run-up” which can go much higher up the beach than people suspect.
Large waves of up to 26 feet along the coast have been predicted and various offices pointed out “sneaker waves,” which are the larger sets of waves than the others. The NWS Seattle also warned that “Large breaking waves and sneaker waves can knock people off their feet, move driftwood and debris, and crash over rocks and jetties,” noting that injuries and drowning can happen “while observing the ocean.” In Northern California, there was an advisory of large breaking waves of up to 22 to 25 feet and disputed beachcombing due to the possibility of wave run-up of over the top of rocks and jetties.
In the case of Southern and Central California, the dangers extend to the rip currents and nearshore capsizes. NWS San Francisco issued warnings that “Large breaking waves can overpower swimmers resulting in significant physical injury and increase the risk of drowning,” and its small-craft advisory cautioned operators not to work in rough water without experience. In the West Coast, a Small Craft Advisory may be associated with dangerous winds and seas that may pose a risk to smaller ships, and forecasters pointed out that the limit may be based on local waters and the expertise of the operator.
The forecast language also indicates the reason why one number hardly tells the story. The NWS has highlighted the fact that waves are characterized by height, direction and period and that period assists in showing the amount of energy that a swell would have upon reaching the shore. In reality, long period swells may increase shore run-up, and shorter period wind waves may render things out of control in small vessels.
Since the advisories modify both by place and time window, one of the safety threads that constantly stays is distance. Remaining a long distance off the edge of the water, evading jetties and rocks, and making driftwood a floating rubbish as significant to the onlookers as to the swimmer, the surfer, and the seafarer.
